Getting There
by Scott Welty
Cruising by Sail Definitions:
1. Repairing your boat in exotic ports
all over the world
2. Long stretches of relative peace and
boredom separated by brief moments of
abject terror
3. Not being able to go the direction
you want to go.
In this article I’d like to deal with
the third definition (while I’m
currently “enjoying” definition #1).
Head Winds
So often we have a decent wind and, sure
enough, it is right in our face for
where we want to go. The sea conditions
are choppy. What do you do?
Motor straight into it with bare poles.
I see many Lake Michigan sailors take
this approach. When they discuss their
day they’ll say, “you know we just
wanted to get there”. I find this the
most uncomfortable attitude to put the
boat in. Let’s face it, these are rotten
power boats by design! A long day of
hobby horsing and crashing the bow
(which is up higher when on the motor)
into the chop is not a fun day. There is
nothing wrong with motor sailing but
let’s not forget the sailing part!
Motor with the main
Two things will happen if you raise the
main and keep the motor on. 1. The
motion of the boat will be calmed by the
damping effects of the main moving
through the air. 2. If you can bear off
a little to keep some pressure on the
main your speed will increase AND your
motion will be even more sailboat like
and less hobby horse like. But we want
to GET there and now we’ve had to bear
off to keep the pressure on. Ah Ha!
Remember, since you are having maybe an
uncomfortable day, you don’t care how
far you sail; or you care how long you
sail. So the question becomes as it
often does in sailing and in this
article: How much direction would you
give up for how much gain in speed?
In this case let’s say that going dead
into it in some chop you are only making
an average of 3 knots. This is not
unreasonable on our Catalina 30. She’ll
do 5+ knots on the motor alone but heavy
chop and head wind will knock this down
considerably.
So we raise the main and bear off until
the main fills and we get some push from
it. Now we want to sail from A to B but
we are going to bear off and sail a new
direction. The new velocity has to have
the same or better ‘velocity made good’
(VMG) to make this worth it.
Your VMG is just your velocity projected
back onto your rumb line. As seen in
figure 1, the more you lay off the rumb
line the faster you have to go to have
the same VMG.
As the graph in figure 2 shows…Raise
your sail and bear off, brother! For
example, if you bear off 20 degrees and
can get your speed up to about 3.15
knots or greater you are going to be
more comfortable and get there in the
same time or SOONER!
Of course you might turn off the engine
and raise all sails and start tacking in
true sailor fashion, “clawing your way
up the coast” as Hornblower would put
it. Now at the best you are going to be
45 degrees off the wind. It is still the
same graph you just want to look at
angles around 45 or 50 degrees. (see
figure 3)
As expected this requires a more
significant increase in speed to about
4.2 knots but this ignores any leeway.
There is nothing wrong with keeping the
engine on, though! If the boat is in a
more comfortable condition, you are not
pounding into the head seas AND you get
to mess with your sails - go for it! For
me it sure beats the heck out of
chugging straight into the slop.
Sailing Down Wind
The other extreme is being on or close
to a dead run. If you fly a spinnaker or
go wing and wing the question is about
the same. If I’m not so comfortable with
the wind dead aft, but that’s the
direction I want to go, how much gain in
speed for how much I run up? Maybe I run
up until I can get on a broad reach. The
question is geometrically a little
trickier because it is not symmetric as
it is when you are tacking. When you
tack your VMG would be the same on
either tack if you are tacking through
around 90 degrees. When you jibe you
would have a long run on a starboard
tack keeping the wind at let’s say 120
degrees relative to the boat. Then
you’ll have short run on the other tack
to get the wind to be 120 degrees on the
other side of the boat. See figure 4.
The graph in figure 5 shows by what
factor you have to increase your speed
for how much lay-off angle. Each curve
is for a different wind direction to the
rumb line. For example. If the wind is
10 degrees off of your rumb line (figure
5) and you lay off 20 degrees, you have
to increase your speed by a factor of
about 1.1 times what you were doing
heading right for your mark. So, if you
were doing 5 kts going for it you have
to go 5.5 kts or better to make it worth
it.
What we quickly see from the graph is
that with the wind way behind you, you
are almost certainly going to do better
by running up 5 or 10 degrees. This turn
only requires about a 5% increase in
speed. At 5 knots you have to be able to
increase your speed to 5.25 knots or
better to make this course worth it.
This does NOT take into account time
spent jibing the boat. Certainly the
longer the total run the less this
matters. For cruisers, where a long down
wind leg might be several miles the time
taken to jibe is totally ignorable.
So, cruisers, yes we DO want to get
there but that may mean being a clever
sailor and aiming the boat where you
don’t want to go!
Scott taught high school and college
physics over a 30 year career which
included a 4 year stint at Chicago’s
Museum of Science and Industry. An avid
Lake Michigan sailor, Scott and his wife
Sue Budde retired from their respective
jobs in June of 2005, sold their house,
cars and most possessions and struck out
to try their hand at the cruising life.
Their goal is to get their Catalina 30
sailboat from Chicago to the Florida
Keys and beyond.